The past and present of HK's Western Market

Author︰Huang Haoyi

Many historic buildings in Hong Kong have become tourist hotspots after being revitalised, while the nearly 120-year-old Western Market in Sheung Wan, which was transformed into a marketplace, received much less attention after its revitalisation.

What glorious history does it have? At the end of 2025, Western Market will commence its third renovation project. It is expected to to be repositioned and unveiled with a new look in just over two years.

Western Market: The oldest surviving market building in HK

When it comes to historic market buildings, many people might think of the Central Market (currently in its fourth generation, built in 1939). However, Western Market, formerly the old Sheung Wan Market, has an even longer history. Built in 1906, it is the oldest surviving market building in Hong Kong.

Old Sheung Wan Market in the 1940s.
Old Sheung Wan Market in the 1940s. (Web Image)

Before becoming a market, the site of the old Sheung Wan Market was once the headquarters of the Marine Department.

However, due to the department's limited space, which was insufficient to cope with the increasing workload of maritime administration, the department relocated to the newly reclaimed area in Central. The old building was then demolished and rebuilt as the old Sheung Wan Market.

In Hong Kong's early colonial days, there were only some open-air markets. The hawkers set up stalls with bamboo baskets on shoulder poles or wooden planks, making it convenient to set up stalls anytime.

It was not until the completion of indoor markets such as Sheung Wan Market and Central Market that hawkers were provided with fixed stalls for their trade.

Read more: Hong Kong markets: From hawker "guerilla stalls" to municipal marketplaces

Western Market features Edwardian architectural style in 1900s

The old Sheung Wan Market was divided into two sections, the South Wing and the North Wing.

The South Wing building was located on Queen's Road Central, built in 1858. It was demolished in 1981 due to the construction of the MTR Island Line. After reconstruction, it became the Sheung Wan Municipal Services Building, which opened at the end of 1989.

The picture shows the South Block Building of Sheung Wan Market located on Queen's Road Central in 1978.
The old Sheung Wan Market is one of Hong Kong's early indoor markets. The photo was taken in 1978.

The North Wing building, the predecessor of Western Market, was completed in 1906, adopting the Edwardian architectural style popular in Britain from 1901 to 1910. The building has a symmetrical layout and is built with red bricks and granite, emphasising practicality.

The main entrance on the ground floor has a large round arch design, providing an elegant feel. The first floor is built with arcades. Each corner of the building has facades with banded brick decorations, which fully reflecting its colonial character.

Additionally, the roof is covered with Chinese-style rolled tiles. The entire building combines Western classical elements and Hong Kong's British architectural features, making it one of the early designs with East and West design integration in Hong Kong.

Fan-shaped windows and white keystones (also called capstones or keystones) of Western Market
The main entrance on the ground floor in Western Market
The main entrance on the ground floor in Western Market, with the large round arch design is very distinctive.
The stairs of Western Market are made of granite.

However, with the completion of the adjacent Sheung Wan Municipal Services Building, the vendors of the old Sheung Wan Market North Wing gradually moved into the new building, leading to the disuse and vacancy of the North Wing Building.

Read more: Examining the historical changes in Hong Kong through old photos of Central Market

Old Sheung Wan Market North Wing designated as a statutory monument in 1990

It was not until 1990 that the old Sheung Wan Market North Wing was designated as a statutory monument.

In 1991, Land Development Corporation (the predecessor of the Urban Renewal Authority) began renovation works on old Sheung Wan Market North Wing. The staircases retained their old-style windows, and newly added stained glass was used to enhance the vintage feel. The iconic round large windows were bricked up, becoming a unique hallmark.

After the renovation, two additional floors were added, transforming the building into a four-storey high structure. It transformed from a market into a centre for traditional industries and handicrafts, and was renamed Western Market.

Unlike most malls, apart from specialty shops and restaurants, the second floor of Western Market became a hub for fabric shops. These fabric shops migrated from the fabric stalls on Fabric Alley (花布街) that had to move around the same time.

In 1991, after the renovation of the North Wing of the old Sheung Wan Market, the original market was transformed into a traditional industry and handicraft centre, and was renamed Western Market.
Western Market once opened a nostalgic dance restaurant, which attracted many dance enthusiasts.

In the past, Wing On Street in Central (now The Center) was famous for selling fabrics, and was hence also known as Fabric Alley.

Due to the urban renewal plan in the 1990s, many fabric vendors were relocated to Western Market to continue their business, preserving the traditional characteristics of Fabric Alley, which also became one of Western Market's features.

In addition, Western Market also opened a nostalgic dance restaurant, attracting many enthusiasts to support it. It was also a venue for Hong Kong residents to hold wedding banquets and large dining parties.

In 2003, Western Market underwent revitalisation works again, adding themed restaurants and multiple specialty shops.

Western Market will begin a major renovation project at end of 2025

This year (2025), Western Market is set to undergo renovation, embarking on its third revitalisation plan.

Many shops have been gradually relocated, leaving behind a group of fabric vendors who originally moved there from Fabric Alley in earlier years, quietly holding their ground.

It is reported that they must relocate by the end of October or early November at the latest. Many of them have been running their businesses for decades, working hard and unwilling to leave even when their income is low or even at a loss.

Although most shops in Western Market have already relocated, the fabric stores on the second floor will continue to operate until the end of October or early November at the latest.
Old appearance of the Sheung Wan Market in the 1940s.1

The renovation and maintenance works of Western Market are expected to take about two years, and it will reopen in 2028. However, after the restoration, its positioning and usage may change, and "Fabric Alley" may no longer be part of it.

The wheel of time keeps moving forward. Let's wait patiently for Western Market's transformation again and meet the public with a brand new look.

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